Where do I begin? .... I've fallen in love. With a culture, a land, a people, a way of life more challenging; more beautiful than we could ever imagine. I had experiences on this trip that forced me to contemplate every day how on earth I would ever be able to fully explain them all to you ... But, I'm going to try -- because these experiences need to be told and because without each other, we're nothing. Because your value and worth in this lifetime is greater than you will ever know and the gifts that surround you, those within you, are real and immeasurably fruitful. If I can say one thing - - please, don't waste a minute of your life. It is precious and there is much to be done.
It's funny how you can be on the verge of doing something substantially risky; unusual; out of the ordinary; possibly dangerous and somehow feel remarkably calm... because you know it's right. I'm not sure if I've ever felt more calm than I did sitting at that airport waiting for my flight to leave Chicago. I was at peace. I traveled for a total of 25 hours and did not mind a second of it. I slept most of the way, only to wake to the woman next to me who had saved all my meals as I dozed off... literally, piled them up. ;) One of the many kindnesses I would experience on this trip.
And as we finally made our way into Kiliminjaro International Airport, I'm certain I came off to the passengers as a 5 year-old who'd just downed 10 pixie sticks, but come on, it was incredible! We landed on a runway and turned right back down the same one to get off. It was a very small airport. The stairs opened up and we walked right off the plane onto the land. No walkways, no guidelines, just you and the earth. Africa. You can smell its beauty. It was 10:30 at night; I could see nothing, but the scent alone made me understand that this land was miraculous, vigorous and exhilarating. I knew this was where I was meant to be. The air is fresh in the truest sense. The plants, the animals, the earth! I made jokes about smelling elephant poop and wanting to run after it (the elephant, not the poop) because discovering the earth in this way is truly alluring; invigorating; real. Real. A word you'll hear me say many times throughout this process. As unbelievable as much of the experience was, it is, indeed, the realest I've ever known.
Upon my arrival, I quickly learned that Christmas and New Years Eve are the two most dangerous times of the year in Tanzania. It just so happened to be New Years Eve (sorry, Mom and Dad). Being a holiday, the locals know that more money is on the streets, people are drinking more and it's an excellent opportunity for pick-pocketing, robbery and crime. We drove for about an hour and a half to our home down a dark dirt road, discovering the volunteer house surrounded by giant walls. These walls are there for security and protection, which I'll admit I'm thankful for. There's a security guard on shift every night and I understood his purpose when five minutes into my arrival, there's an insane banging on the door as a volunteer is let in. He shouts, "Do NOT go out there!.... I just got robbed AND shot at!"
"Alrighty then!" I thought, "Note to self: the danger here is real." Of course, he made some admittedly silly decisions that night, but it is true -- You simply do NOT go out alone at night in this area of Tanzania (perhaps in most parts of Africa). There are no street lights off the main road, and the stone filled dirt paths are made darker by surrounding banana trees and things of the like. After living in a major city for six years, I've learned to walk from point A to point B and stay aware of my surroundings at night -- in Tanzania, absolutely not. The danger is real and people are desperate when in need.
I spent the next day touring Arusha, the town of my placement, and getting a complete crash-course in Swahili. And let me tell you, when you are thrust into an environment, you will learn the language faster than you'd expect. Meeting remarkably beautiful people does not harm the process either.....
Arusha is on the outskirts of Mt. Kilimanjaro and Mt. Meru; the weather is pleasant and comfortable. The town is buzzing every day with people who are eager to sell you whatever they can make, find or grow; for you know they've got children or extended family at home in need of food.
This lovely bucket of goat heads was parked next to me as I sat down to eat in town. The women shaving them were preparing "goat head stew" and loved seeing the eye balls pop out of my head as I watched!!
We have a grill in our backyard, they just have Kili. BREATHTAKING.
To get around town in Tanzania, you either walk or take a dala dala. Keep in mind, Arusha is a town, not a village - I will show you a village later. A dala dala is a van that ought to seat about 10-12 at most, only in actuality, I'd say 22 will weasel their way in. It is bumpy, uncomfortable and full of body odor... but, I love it. People in Africa are aggressive and in each other's space, but in many ways, it is beautiful! If a woman needs to get on a dala dala and has a bag of rice and a child, she will hand the child off to the first person she sees so she can get on. No problem. They trust one another, take care of one another, and know no other way than this. They are friendly beyond anything I've seen before. Everyone is eager to say hello and how are you? "Mambo? Vipi?" they say. No headphones; no ipods; just an honest appreciation for human interaction - it's what they know best and it's what I desperately long for now. And though there is so much challenge and heartbreak, there is ambiability and love. Corruption? Absolutely. But, you discover in no time who is sincere and who is not. I'll expand on corruption in posts to come. If I may be honest, and that's what I'm here for, it is of great importance to me to start on a lighter note because... well, that's how it naturally unfolded, but also -- My life has changed now and each day is a challenge, a wonderful and productive one which I am forever thankful for, but a challenge in many ways from all I've seen. But, I'd like you to come through the journey with me. For your sake and mine, I need to unwrap this experience for you in its truest form. You will see it all and it's important that you see the fun moments as well as the heartbreaking ones. There is much more to come. Your attention here is appreciated more than I can convey and I value your interest very much. Thank you.
More to come! God bless :)
Special thanks to Kuo-Lun Tye.
